Friday 22 February 2019

Art of Dressing

ABC of Men's Fashion by Hardy Amies:

An established trick in theatre design is to make a costume in a series of tones of the same colour. This is often more effective than two or more contrasting colours which can split up the effect instead of giving one big punch.

But to achieve the nonchalance which is absolutely necessary for a man, one article at least must not match. For instance, you can wear a dark blue suit and tie with a pale blue shirt and navy blue socks, but you must then have a patterned silk handkerchief say in dark red or a paisley design of green and brown; or you could stick to a blue handkerchief and have dark red socks.

Hardy Amies 对待男装很有意思的态度,男人在打扮中必须透出一定程度的漫不经心,切不可对衣服太过在乎。原文很简洁,但难译,我只能译得如下般啰嗦:

舞台设计中有一个惯用技巧,是把整套服装都做成同一种颜色,不同部分只有色调的区别。通常这样做比使用两三种强烈对比色更有效;对比色会使整体效果分散,无法汇聚成视觉冲击。

但男人对待着装绝不该太过认真,因此身上必须有至少一件服饰不匹配。比如说,你可以穿深蓝色西装和领带,配淡蓝色衬衫和藏青色袜子,但然后你就应该戴一条有暗红色花纹,或者棕绿相间佩斯利纹样的口袋巾;或者你可以戴蓝色口袋巾,但是配暗红色袜子。